浅谈烘焙缺陷当我们谈到精品咖啡的时候，呈现在咖啡供应链里的每一个步骤对于最后呈现在我们面前的咖啡成品都至关重要。那么在咖啡从种子到杯子供应链里一个非常重要的步骤是烘焙。When it comes to specialty coffee, every step in the supply chain becomes extremely important in creating the final product that we enjoy as a cup of coffee. One hugely important step in the chain of coffee from seed to cup, is roasting.
咖啡烘焙从表面上讲，似乎仅仅是一个简单的过程，拿来咖啡生豆，加一些热量，然后几分钟内你就有了烘培咖啡豆。也许对于一些没有投入时间来享受更精细,更复杂的咖啡烘培方法的公司和顾客而言那就是咖啡烘培了，但对于专业的咖啡大师和顾客而言，烘培的过程会更加的注重细节也需要更多的投入。Roasting coffee, on the surface, seems like a simple enough process of taking a green coffee bean, adding some heat, and in a few minutes you have roast coffee. While the process may be just that simple for some companies and consumers who don’t take the time to enjoy the finer, more complex aspects of coffee, for specialty coffee craftsmen and consumers the process is much more detailed and involved.
在烘培的过程中咖啡豆经历着许多不同的化学和物理的变化，基于这些变化对于最后咖啡质量的影响很多仍然没有被完全理解。一些影响咖啡烘培的因素（仅举几例）包括： 空气流，热源，温度上升速率，转鼓转速 （ 对于烘培转鼓而言），风扇速度，结束温度和冷却时间。在烘培的过程中有如此多的影响咖啡质量的变量因素去控制和管理，也就见怪不怪了，每年会有那么多的咖啡会被过度烘培，烘培不足或者因为一些其他的因素而产生烘培瑕疵。During the roasting process the coffee bean undergoes so many different chemical and physical changes that many are still not fully understood as to their impact on the coffee’s final quality. Some of the factors affecting the roast include airflow, heat source, rate of temperature rise, drum speed (for drum roasters), fan speed, ending temperature and cooling time, just to name a few.With so many different variables to control and monitor during roasting that impact the quality of the roast, it’s no wonder that so many batches of coffee are (tragically) over-roasted, under-roasted or meet some other fate as a roasted defect each year.
有许多种不同的烘培瑕疵会出现，但是一些最常见的包括： 焙烤，顶部烧焦，破损豆，局部烧焦和 快速烘培。 你可以在旧版美国精品咖啡协会的咖啡风味轮的不恰当烘培部分看到所列举的这些因素。There are many different kinds of roast defects that can occur, but some of the most prevalent include: baking, tipping, chipping, scorching, and fast roasting. You can see a few of these listed on the old version SCAA’s Coffee Taster’s Flavor Wheel under Improper Roasting.焙烤 Baking
焙烤可能出现在烘培过程的一些方面。可能由于烘培过程中温度过低。于是确切的讲焙烤是在整个咖啡的标准烘培时间12分钟里，温度的提升是每分钟1-2 摄氏度（ 这里仅谈样品烘培）。如果说在烘培的过程中任何的增温点内每分钟的增温率不上升反而下降，通常人们也叫烘烤烘培 。这通常会发生在接近一爆的时候，为了防止豆子过度烘培，烘培师会关小热源，要么快速降温或者长时间保持较低的温度。焙烤情况下的豆子，通常会表面颜色上看着像标准烘培，但是豆子内部的颜色将不会和豆子外部颜色相匹配。相对而言，标准烘培豆子内部颜色应该相对Agtron 数值浅 5 分。 相对标准烘培的咖啡的话，焙烤的咖啡尝起来会非常的单调，无趣，也可能会有类似谷物或面包的味道。Baking can occur at a few places during roasting. It can occur from too low of heat applied throughout the roast, thus actually baking the coffee by only increasing the temperature 1-2 degrees per minute for a total roast time of well over the standard 12 minutes (talking about sample roasting).Usually people will also call a roast baked if at any point during the roast the rate of rise per minute either doesn’t increase or actually drops. This usually happens near first crack when, in order to keep the beans from over-roasting, the roaster will lower the heat source and either lower it too far or keep it lowered for too long. Baking the roast will usually create a bean that on the outside looks like a standard roast, but the inside color of the bean will not match the outside, which for a standard roast the inside color should be around 5 points lighter using the Agtron scale.A bakes cup will typically taste very flat and dull compared to a standard roast of the same coffee, and can also have grain or bread-like flavor notes.顶部烧焦
顶部烧焦通常发生在被称为猛烈烘培的过程中，或者当太多的热量被吸收的太快的话。豆子顶部接近胚芽的地方，会爆破而在豆子末端留下凹痕。顶部烧焦的咖啡通常会有类似臭鼬或者谷类作物的味道。Tipping usually happens during what’s called a violent roast, or when too much heat is applied too quickly. The tip of the bean, near the embryo, bursts leaving a dark indention on the end of the bean. Tipped coffee will usually have a skunky or cereal-like flavor.崩裂豆
崩裂豆与顶部烧焦的豆子有些类似，出现在激烈烘培的过程中，在深度烘焙的咖啡更为普遍。当豆子最脆弱的薄膜承受不住压力时，豆子内部的水分开始蒸发，进而发生爆破而在豆子的表面产生破裂。不要对顶部烧焦感到迷惑，崩裂豆通常出现在豆子的圆形的表面。崩裂豆自身不会产生风味瑕疵，但是经常出现在深度烘培的咖啡中。因此咖啡会有焦的，类似碳味的风味。Chipping is similar to tipping in that it occurs during violent roasts and is more prevalent in dark roasted coffees. Chipping happens when the moisture level in the bean begins evaporating at such a rate that the weakest point of the bean membrane can no longer contain the pressure, bursting and creating a chip on the surface of the bean. Not to be confused with tipping，chipping usually occurs on the rounded surface of the bean. Chipping creates no flavor defect of its own, but almost always happens in dark roasted coffees, therefore the coffee will have dark, char-like flavor notes.局部烧焦
局部烧焦的出现是基于有太高的转鼓的控制温度。控制温度是基于当烘培师把生豆放在转鼓中在烘培开始时的温度。因为较高的温度，咖啡生豆的表面通常会出现局部烧焦。在豆子的表面留下黑点。基于咖啡越来越深的颜色，你可能不能够看清楚最后烘培豆上的黑点，这就意味着局部烧焦有时很难去发现。局部烧焦的豆子会在咖啡里出现烧焦的灰尘的味道。Scorching occurs due to having too high of a drum charge temperature. Charge temperature refers to the temperature at the beginning of the roast when the roaster places the green coffee inside the drum. Because of the high temperature, the surface of the green coffee will actually become scorched, leaving black marks on the surface of the bean.You may or may not be able to see the marks clearly on the final roasted bean due to the darker color of the coffee, meaning scorching is sometimes harder to detect. The scorching creates a charred or ash-like flavor in the coffee.快速烘焙快速烘培是简单的，当烘培师过快烘培豆子时出现。这种状况出现在太多的热量被吸收，并且加温率过快，以至于咖啡没有足够的时间去在烘培的过程中很好的发展。豆子的表面将看起来像标准烘培的颜色，但是豆子的内部颜色很浅，并且有点发展不足。很多时候，快速烘培，由于过快的加温，也会导致颜色太深了。这样咖啡豆过度烘培的表面就会产生一种混合的碳味和灰尘味，同时豆子的内部也会有发展不足的干草或者草味。A fast roast is simply that, when a roaster roasts the coffee too quickly. This happens when too much heat is applied and the rate of rise is so high that the coffee doesn’t have time to fully develop during the roast. The outside surface of the bean will look like a standard roast color, but the inside of the bean will be light and underdeveloped.Many times fast roasts, because of the rapid heating, will also be taken too dark. This creates a combination of char and ash flavor from the over-roasted surface of the bean and under-developed hay or grass-like flavors from the inside of the bean.
烘焙师寄语：
由于在咖啡烘培的过程中有太多的变量因素需要去考虑去控制，那么作为精品咖啡的烘培师这也是必要的。因此我们要不断的在这些问题上去学习探索，注意到这些变量，从而我们可以制作最好质量的咖啡，珍惜所有的咖农和在咖啡供应链里将咖啡带到烘培这一环节的参与者的辛勤工作，进而把真正可以称作精品咖啡的产品提供给广大消费者。Because of the amount of variables to control and issues that can occur during coffee roasting, it’s imperative as specialty coffee artisans, that we educate ourselves on these issues and are aware so that we are able to craft the finest coffee quality possible, passing along all of the hard work of the farmers and everyone who has brought the coffee to this point in the supply chain, and deliver what can truly be called specialty coffee.TORCH咖啡实验室云南
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